Pringles can offers macro flash diffusion for less than $2

    In a recent post, we discussed ways to do macrophotography if you don't have a dedicated macro lens.

    Now, lets talk about lighting those extreme close-ups.

    While you can use continuous light, such as a desk lamp, you might not have that option if you are shooting outdoors, or if the lights you have won't permit a fast-enough shutter speed to avoid blurring.

    One of the best ways to do that is through camera flashes, but you are going to need to diffuse the light to make it flattering, as well as work well up close.

    One low-budget way to do it is to use a Pringles potato-chip can as a snoot/diffuser for the pictures.

    A Pringles can is particularly suited for this task because the inside of the canister is silver colored, making it more reflective. It also has a clear cap, into which you can put diffusing material to soften the light.

    Plus, Pringles don't leave the same greasy residue behind like traditional potato chips.

    There are multiple tutorials online for how to make this rig, but here's how I made mine.

    First, I picked up some Pringles at the local Walmart for just under $2, and had a nice snack at work for a couple days.

    Then, after sweeping all the chip crumbs out of the tube, I cut out a hole in the side about a quarter-inch from the bottom that was the same dimension as the flash head. While some people cut away the cardboard completely, I chose to leave it as two flaps to better grip the flash head.

    While some people will mount the flash in the back, I found the side mount is better, as the head is straight up, and you can angle it to light the subject in front of the lens. The other way requires sculpting the tube into a particular shape, which only works if you are going to use one particular lens for your macro shoots. I personally prefer to keep my options open.

    For my diffusion panel, I put a circle of copy paper in the cap. After making sure it worked, I then put black duct tape on the outside to give it a relatively professional look.

    This is how the rig looks when on the flash and camera, before being covered in duct tape. 

 

       (Note the guide number of the side of the flash, a tip from an earlier post on flash photography.)

     

     Here's a photo taken with ambient light in the room, with no flash as the control.

    

  

    And here's one with the diffuser.

    For this shot, I was using through-the-lens metering for the flash, but you can use a manual flash, but it might take a bit of trial and error.

How to get extreme close-ups with the camera you have

     I've always said that photography can show you things that you can't see, as well as record the things that you can see.

    One of those ways is macrophotography, where you can go in for extreme close-ups of various objects. This allows you see details that may not be readily apparent to the naked eye, as well as create a new perspective on an otherwise mundane object.

    There are dedicated lenses for macrophotograpy, as well as filter-like diopters you can use to magnify the image in your lens. There are also extension tubes and even bellows that can put the lens farther out to create a close-up image.

    But if you don't want to invest in that gear, especially if you're trying out macrophotography for the first time, there are a couple easy solutions.

    If you're using a cellphone camera, you can use a simple magnifying glass to get a closer look. Just put the glass in front of your lens and you might have to move your camera back and forth to bring it into focus.

    That's how I got this photo of a coin commemorating the 75th anniversary of the B-17 "Memphis Belle" completing 25 missions over Europe in World War II.

    If you are lucky enough to have a camera with a removable lens, there's a way to get a great macro shot. It's a tip I first learned in high school back when we were still shooting film.

    Take off your lens and hold it up backwards against the camera's lens mount. You'll have to hold it tight to prevent a light leak and then move back and forth to get the image in focus. If you're using a lens where the camera sets the aperture instead, you'll have to hold your finger on the lever that adjusts the aperture to get it to stay wide open.

    I took this shot using a 50mm f-2 Rikenor lens that I reversed.   

    For perspective, here's a shot of the same coin, taken with the 50mm properly mounted on my camera.