PVC lightstands can support flash units with DIY adapter

    As promised, here's how to mount a flash unit on your PVC light stand.

    Everybody is familiar with flash units, especially on-camera flash. Some people started out with the built-in flash, but the first major upgrade is going with a speed light on the hot shoe.

    But if you want to take your flash photography to the next level, you need to get the flash off the camera, allowing you to get better lighting angles than if it's attached to the top of your camera, or on a bracket to the side.

    We won't get into how to trigger the flash, as the DIY options involve some knowledge of electronics and there are options available such as wireless transmitters or using our camera's on-board flash as a "master" to trigger the "subordinate" flashes.

    But the question is how to set the flash up away from the camera. Most speed lights nowadays come with a small cold-shoe base you can attach to the bottom of the flash. This base lets you set it on a table or shelf, but that doesn't help much when there's nothing to sit it on.

    The flash makers recognize that, and these feet have a 1/4x20 hole in the bottom to attach it to a tripod. That's a good alternative, but suppose you need the tripod for a camera, or you don't have the room to set up one or more tripods (they do take up quite a bit of real estate)?

    PVC light stands, particularly the one I built based on Scott Eggelston's (The Frugal Filmmaker) plan, take up one square foot of floor space.

    Using Scott's plan for hacking a worklight, I got a set of four 3/4" PVC end caps to make four flash mounts. While Scott just put a bolt through the cap to attach to the work light, a flash is different, since it would also need to swivel and tilt.

    I found a set of fairly heavy duty ball heads on eBay (I had asked Scott if a ball head he had used in a different project would work for a speed light, but he told me to get something with a greater weight rating.) that could hold a DSLR with lens if needed.

    I attached the head to 1/4x20 bolt through the cap, giving me a mount that can slip over the 3/4" pipe on the lightstand.

    The ball head is fully adjustable and the flash stand attaches easily and securely to it.

Mount your clamp light on a PVC lightstand without the clamp

    In the last post, I talked about how to double the output of a clamp light by using a two-bulb adapter.

    This time, we're going to talk about a better way to mount the lights than with the clamp.

    While the clamp offers a certain level of versatility, there are some drawbacks, especially if you're using the PVC lightstands I highlighted a couple years ago. The clamps sometimes don't grip the pipe just right and may come off at an inopportune moment, or they might throw off the balance of your stand.

    Also, if you're shooting in someone else's home, they may not want you attaching your clamp to their furniture and possibly scuffing it up. (Sometimes the rubber on the clamps wears out.)

    But there's a solution if you use the PVC light stand, as demonstrated by Ryan Connolly over at Film Riot. What Ryan did was replace the clamp with a pipe connector, allowing you to directly connect the light to the stand.

    What you need is a 3/4-inch pipe connector, a bolt, wingnut and a couple nuts if needed. Here's the basic assembly for the mount (before the light is attached).

    First, remove the clamp and get a bolt that will fit the hole that was used by the tiny bolt that held the clamp on. I wouldn't throw away the clamp, as you might want to use it if you're in a situation where you can't use a lightstand.

    Then, drill a hole through both sides of the connector to thread the bolt through. In my case, I needed to put a couple extra nuts on to ensure the clamp mount didn't come apart. On the other side, put the wingnut, as this will let you control the vertical angle of the light.

    This is the finished product, attached to a stand.

    Scott Eggleston, of the The Frugal Filmmaker, offered a similar solution for mounting shop lights on a PVC stand, except using end caps.

    In our next post, I'll show you how to use that technique for flash units.

Bible for those who want to make PVC rigs for home studio

    PVC pipes are not just for carrying water.

    They can be used to construct a variety of things, especially photographic gear such as shoulder rigs, light stands and light boxes. Youtubers such as Scott Eggleston (The Frugal Filmmaker) and Dave Knop (Knoptop) have done impressive things with the pipes as well.

    But there is a book that describes how to essentially create almost an entire studio outfitted with PVC lighting rigs of various sorts, as well as accessories such as casters and counterweights.

    "Tinker Tubes: Personal Lighting Systems" by Dean Collins provides plans for a variety of lighting rigs and ways to turn an open garage door into a soft box. Collins, a photographer who died in 2005, developed his system as a way to provide professional level lighting rigs at a fraction of the cost.

    You can download a free, low-resolution copy of the book here, either to build some of these rigs yourself or give you inspiration to design your own rigs.

PVC Shoulder Rig real-world review

    In March, I wrote about the PVC shoulder rig I built, following the pattern used for the "Lars Cam" by The Slanted Lens.

    Since then, I've had a few opportunities to use it in real-world situations, and overall I have to say it has been a success, albeit while finding an area where the design could be tweaked.

    First, I opted to use tape instead of paint to cover the PVC pipe. But, unlike the Slanted Lens' version, I went with cloth hockey-stick tape rather than electrical tape. Aside from cost, the stick tape does not get slippery or come off like electrical tape, and it offers a better grip. After all, that's what stick tape is designed to do.

    It also gives the rig a good, finished look. I also chose to wrap the T-joint, which the crew at The Slanted Lens left undone.

    My first use of the rig was while covering a demonstration of high-tech gear for the battlefield. I was being shuttled around a sprawling military base by van.

    One advantage of the rig is the fact that I was able to disassemble it partially, making it easier to stow between stops. I can also leave it assembled and turn the handles and back support so it can store flat, which is also handy.

    As you can see in the video (and I apologize for the bad audio in the second half. I had a recorder die on me, and I think my phone's on-board mic got covered), that there is some slight movement, but it is steadier than trying to just hand hold it without any support.

    The next time I used it was at a fund-raiser where people were rappelling down the side of a building to raise money for a cancer-support group. Again, I got good results with the rig, and I also discovered that when I put the camera down and let go, the shoulder support held it on my shoulder while the handles kept it close to my body.

    As for improvements I would make, I would probably install a quick-release-plate system to the rig to make it easier to attach the camera.

    Other than that, it's a design I look forward to continually using in my video projects.

PVC shoulder rig for less than $10

    If you've ever tried to shoot handheld video, you know camera shake is a thing, even if you've got the steadiest of hands.

    There are a few tricks to get around it. Knoptop suggests using your camera strap, pulling the camera away from you until the strap is taut, providing some stability to the camera. While Scott Eggleston, aka the Frugal Filmmaker, has advocated for cage-like rigs, such as one made out of my favorite material, PVC, and another that is group of flash brackets mounted together.

    But many people have found that shoulder rigs provide great stability for a few reasons. First, you are using your shoulder and body mass to provide stability, and with the right handles, it gives three points of contact. A shoulder rig also puts the camera right about eye level.

    There are plenty of plans for DIY shoulder rigs out there, but the one I liked the best — for the most part — was the one the crew at The Slanted Lens came up with. Dubbed the "Lars Cam," it consists of a 10-12" length of 1-inch PVC pipe, a 1-inch T-joint and three 1-inch 90-degree PVC electrical conduits, along with a 1/4x20 bolt to hold the camera on to it. The tools consist of a power drill (I recommend using a 9/32 bit, as it makes it easier to insert the bolt in the hole), and a way to cut PVC pipe. My personal choice is a pair of ratcheting PVC pipe cutters.

    I spent $6.72 at Home Depot on the conduit, T-joint and bolt (actually, the bolts came in a three-pack with nuts). I was able to get a short length of PVC pipe from a friendly plumber for free from his scrap collection. 

    From my test run with it, the rig is quite stable and handles smoothly. You can still reach up to adjust focal length or focus, resting one of the handles either in the crook of your arm or on your forearm.

    At this point, I am debating whether to use tape to cover the PVC, as the Lars Cam's inventor did, or spray paint. I am also planning to borrow another trick from Knoptop and putting a craft-foam pad around the bolt to better hold the camera.

Light tent for shooting people

    There's been talk on some of the photography websites about a portable studio that's about seven feet by four feet.

    The Konseen Photo studio, includes a tent, backgrounds and LED light system. The larger size goes for about $380. The concept is not bad, considering light tents have been used in product photography before, so it could be used for portraiture, especially when you have limited space for a proper studio.

    But the price tag could be a bit off-putting, especially for people whose Gear Acquisition Syndrome is kept in check by their wallets. It was disappointing to see another DIY photo website highlight this product without suggesting a cheaper way to get the same effect.

    That's why I'm here.

    Taking a quick look at Home Depot's website, you can get enough PVC pipe and fittings to construct the frame for less than $25. It's essentially a larger version of the tent I recommended for product photography. For the side walls, I would go with shower curtain liners from your local dollar store, and I would suggest using whatever light system you have, be it clamp lights, speed lights or some other rig.

PVC Lightbox improves quality of product photos

    Between Etsy, eBay and other online commerce sites, there are a lot of people hawking wares on the internet.

    And to promote these products, the sellers put up pictures, and the quality varies from professional-looking product photos to something someone took with a cheap phone camera on a kitchen table with no thought for lighting.

    Poor photos don't necessarily lead to sales, or getting the best price in an online auction. People can't see how good the product looks.

    But there is a way to get good looking product photos. Use a light box. It's a device that surrounds the product in soft light from multiple sides, eliminating reflections and shadows, as well as distracting backgrounds.

    There are some DIY versions made from cardboard boxes, but the best, in my opinion, is the one made from PVC pipe. PVC Fittings Online has a Youtube video showing how they put together one for product photography.

    I built one, using two 10-foot lengths of ½-inch PVC pipes, with four three-way connectors and four elbows. I use the elbows to put the extra two-foot sections across the bottom as feet. It cost me less than $11 in PVC parts at Lowe's.

    While the video calls for making the walls out of curtain, I found that blank newsprint works as well. You can usually get a roll of the material from your local newspaper for a dollar or two.

Frugal Filmmaker's $5 PVC light stands a practical way to hang lights, back drops.

    As most makers know, PVC pipes are a versatile medium.

    You can make quite a few things out of the pipes for a relatively low cost. The limits are just your imagination, just like with Lego bricks or Tinker Toys.

    (The pipes have been nicknamed "Tinker Tubes" for their use as a modular building material.)

    One of the more popular uses of PVC among DIY photographers is light stands. If you go online, you'll find a variety of stands online, holding a variety of lighting rigs, from speed lights to modified work lights.

    In my opinion, one of the best is the one designed by Scott Eggleston, also known as The Frugal Filmmaker for about $5 a stand. The stands are modular, which makes them adjustable to any height you need while being easy to transport. And you can use them to hang back drops, hold mics or position reflectors or sound-absorbing material.

    I built a set of four stands for about $25, which included extra poles to use for hanging a back drop, and extra connectors. I did try to cut some corners on Scott's design by eliminating end caps on the feet, but I quickly discovered that the caps are not there for aesthetics. They help stabilize the stand, because without them the stand is resting on the center pipe connector, making it unstable.

    My wife and I gave them a battle test recently, when we used them to hold up a limbo bar during a Cub Scout Blue and Gold banquet. The stands survived a parade of Scouts trying to get under the bar.